WHAT IS IT ???

Below is a listing of the different materials that products on this site may be made of and interesting information regarding the make up of these materials and how to clean and core for them.

Acrylic
This a generic type of plastic that is impact resistant, with a high-gloss finish and is half the weight of glass.  To clean, wash with mild soap or detergent, with plenty of lukewarm water, dry with soft cloth or chamois.
Do Not Use  any window cleaning sprays, cleaners with ammonia, solvents, scouring compounds, acetone, gasoline, benzene, carbon tetrachloride or lacquer thinner.   These will damage the plastic and cause the surface to look hazy.   Eventually the plastic will dry out and develop tiny cracks or "crazing" all the way through.

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Agate
Agate is a banded colored stone found in nodular masses associated with volcanic lavas.  The curved banding is distinct from other forms of chalcedony. Agate, being porous, is often dyed or stained.  Large agates are often cut in half and dyed to form attractive bookends.  Agate occurs in a variety of forms, including petrified wood, which has had it's organic matter replaced by agate.

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Alabastrite
Alabastrite is a stone-based material that can be intricately molded and will allow paint to adhere. Our product line name for polyresin items. Cold-cast.  Clean by dusting; do not wash with water.

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Aluminum
Aluminum metal is light in weight and silvery-white in appearance. We are most familiar with aluminum in beverage cans, pots and pans, airplanes, siding and roofing, and foil.

The reason aluminum metal is so durable is that the aluminum atoms on the surface of the metal quickly combine with oxygen in the air to form a thin, strong, and protective coating of aluminum oxide or alumina. Since pure aluminum is very soft, aluminum is often mixed with small amounts of other metals to form aluminum alloys, which are stronger and harder.

Unlike cleaning cast iron, there is no easy way to clean aluminum other than elbow grease. I have been able to remove baked on crud by placing pieces in a self cleaning oven and then cleaning the oven with the oven settings for that process.

Restoration of scraches or other light damage, requires a lot of patience, sand paper, steel wool and Mother's polishing cream. Use the finest sand paper or emery cloth that will get the job done and move to the next finest and keep going with the elbow grease and sweat labor. Finish with Mother's polishing cream (available at WalMart or any automotive store). I've also been told that a coat of wax after you have finished polishing will aid in preventing the oxidation that occur over time with aluminum pieces.

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Amethyst
Amethyst is a precious crystallized Quartz stone, which is purple or violet in color. It is the birthstone of February and has many legends concerning its mystical properties.  We use only natural Amethyst that has not been cut or polished.

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Brass
True brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. It tends to oxidize (tarnish) quickly when exposed to air which is a major reason WHY most brass is given a clear coating of lacquer to prevent this condition. Most conventional polishes such as   "Brasso®", "Twinkle®", etc. coat the raw metal with a thin film of oil to help inhibit future tarnishing. Additionally, most metal polishes contain solvents and detergents to remove the tarnish, mild abrasives to polish the metal, and oils to act as a barrier between the raw metal and air.

Brass turns "black" when cleaning due to over-use and misuse of polish. The biggest challenge to upkeep most metals, including brass is the removal and inhibition of tarnish. All substances, especially metals, oxidize when exposed to air. Once tarnish is removed, a chemical barrier should be created between the bare metal and the air to inhibit the process from re-occurring.

Many people over-use and flood metal surfaces with polishes believing that they are better protecting the surface. The more polish, the more protection. Wrong assumption. More polish creates a smudging problem since fingerprints (human body oils "dissolve" the solvency of the metal polish. Additionally too much polish may discolor the surface.  Only a trace amount creating a THIN film should be applied. Therefore, an adequate amount of metal polish should be applied and spread out an amount on an absorbent rag. Then, let the rag dry out for a minimum of 24 hours before placement onto most metals. Apply this trace amount of polish with the grain of the brass with one hand while buffing it out in a rapid motion (creating friction) with the other hand. This burnishing action will harden the polish (like "spit shining" a shoe) and create a surface far more difficult to smudge or discolor.

Dealing with "raw" brass instead of finished lacquered brass. The reaction between raw metal and chemicals can is create the condition. The care of most metals is a 2 step process:

1. Cleaning: (for light soils) the use of isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) applied with the sponge side of a light-duty, "white-padded" scrubbing sponge with the grain of the door. In the event of tougher scuff marks, flip over sponge and gently agitate with the grain of the metal with the white scrub pad (for heavier soils). Dampen sponge side with water, and apply a light scouring low abrasion creme onto it. Work product into sponge, and then stroke it onto your door with the grain. Once completed, wipe surface thoroughly clean with a clean, soft rag. Once surface is cleaned, then go to the next step.
2. Polishing: One of the best tools which provides just the right amount of oil onto metal is a "yellow" treated dust cloth. Wipe down brass with this cloth and then buff it dry with a soft, cotton cloth. This trace amount of oil in the cloth should not smear or discolor, especially after buffing.

Lacquering can be done at home, but all old lacquer must be removed first, and the surface completely clean (no fingerprints or cleaner on it) before spraying the lacquer on evenly in multiple thin coats. It is hard to do well.  Keep decorative items dusted and clean. Wash in sudsy, lukewarm water, rinse and dry. Never use hot water on lacquered items as it loosens the lacquer; do not polish them or soak them in water.

Olive Oil
Brass will look brighter and require less polishing if rubbed with a cloth moistened with olive oil after each polishing. Olive oil retards tarnish.

Tarnished Brass
Unlacquered brass tarnishes when exposed to air. A weekly wiping with a little liquid ammonia on a soft cloth will help keep unlacquered brass shiny. Use a commercial cleaner (available in grocery or hardware stores) or a homemade cleaner (below) to remove tarnish. On antique brass, test the cleaning product to be sure of obtaining the desired effect. Some methods not only clean tarnish but also remove the mellow coloring of age that is desirable on old drawer pulls and other accessories.

To polish antique brass pieces: wash in hot, soapy water to remove grime, wax, etc. Rinse and dry. Moisten a soft cloth with boiled linseed oil and rub on the brass surface until all the dirt and grease have been removed. Polish with a soft cloth. Very old brass items, especially if in poor condition, require special care. Consult museum experts for advice. To polish for a soft finish: wash in hot, soapy water, rinse and dry. Make a paste of whiting and boiled linseed oil. Apply with a soft cloth and rub to remove tarnish. Wipe off excess paste and polish with a clean cloth. To remove heavy tarnish, difficult stains and corrosion: wash in hot, soapy water or a weak ammonia and water solution and rinse. Dampen a soft cloth in hot vinegar, then dip in table salt and rub the brass, or make a paste of flour, salt and vinegar. You may need several applications. When the item is clean, wash in hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly, then polish with a cloth moistened with lemon oil. If preferred, dip a slice of fresh lemon into table salt and rub over the corroded area. Wash, rinse and dry carefully.

Brass hearth and fire sets that have been neglected require special treatment. They can be rubbed with extra-fine steel wool (0000); however, this requires much time and work. Very fine emery cloth will give quicker results, but the metal must be rubbed in only one direction, do not use a circular motion. When clean, polish with a brass polish. Some commercial polishes do not require rinsing, so follow label directions. If this doesn't work, spray with black or brass colored paint in a pressurized can.

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Bronzes
The Care of Bronzes
Whether your bronze is an investment or art appreciation, it is important to know how to properly care for your sculpture.  Bronzes are relatively care free. Regular dusting is the minimum of care it requires.  If you do find a need to clean your bronze more thoroughly, we have listed below some suggested cleaning processes.
         
Cleaning a Bronze
Remove dust with a damp sponge.  To dislodge embedded material from deep crevices try using a toothpick, though proceed carefully.  Do not use metal objects or wire brushes.  Do not apply abrasives, such as cleansers; these materials will scratch the finish.
         
Polishing will give your bronze a bright clean look. Any of the following procedures may be used in polishing a bronze figure; all are safe to apply on any type of finish:
         
* SILICONE GUN-POLISHING RAG. To bring out natural-looking highlights, rub the figure vigorously with the silicone treated cloth.
         
* TRANSPARENT LEATHER PRESERVATIVE. Apply the preservative to a soft damp cloth and wipe it over the surface of the bronze.  Next, rub the surface with a dry, soft rag.  The more you rub the higher the luster.
         
* LIGHTWEIGHT LOCK OR WATCH OIL. Apply the oil with a long bristled paint brush.  Cover the entire figure with the oil.  Allow the oil   to set, so that excess oil can drip off; after a few minutes wipe the surface gently with a soft cloth, thus leaving the figure with a pleasing moist look.
         
* SPRAY WAX. For general, everyday upkeep, clean your figure with Pledge and a soft cloth.  This will give it a protective wax finish and alleviate dust, which can destroy a patina.

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Frosted Acrylic
Acrylic items are given the French Lilac process, (used on glass), to achieve the distinctive frosted look.

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Flamed Brass
Brass is cut to desired shape then heated over an open flame until it glows red.   Then it is quenched by plunging it into cool water.  The finish that is achieved becomes an integral part of the piece and will last for years.

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Flamed Copper
Copper is cut to desired shape then torched until red hot.  Then it is plunged into cool water.  As the metal cools, copper oxides form, creating random patterns of rich coppery red.  No two are exactly alike.

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Hand Painted and/or Hand Crafted and/or Hand Carved
These items may vary slightly in color or size when compared to photographed samples shown.  Figurines, carvings and other hand-painted items of porcelain, alabastrite, ceramic, wood, stone, glass, etc., are created by various artists and artisans.  Each brings an individual and personalized talent to his or her work making these products truly one-of-a-kind collectors' items.

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Pewter
Pewter is composed of several gray alloys of Tin with a small amount of Copper to harden it.  It is malleable and does not tarnish. Our figurines are made from "lead free" Pewter which can be classified as American Fine Pewter.  The fact that there is no lead gives the figurines a finer appearance and actually adds to the quality of each piece.   All of the fine designs are first carved in wax by the artist, then cast in Bronze.  The figurines are then reproduced in fine Pewter and finished by hand by skilled craftsmen.

Cleaning a Pewter Figure
Remove dust with a damp sponge.  To dislodge embedded material from deep crevices try using a toothpick, though proceed carefully.  Do not use metal objects or wire brushes.  Do not apply abrasives, such as cleansers; these materials will scratch the finish.

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Porcelain
Fine ground white clay, molded and fired in an oven for eight hours at 1200 degrees. Finished with a glazed, underglazed, or "bisque" finish. Glazing produces a high gloss; underglaze produces a matte finish. Bisque is a matte finish without glaze. After finishing, the item is "cooked" for six hours at 800 degrees.

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Slate
A warm and elegant natural stone.  It is an impermeable barrier to water and has a very high resistance to chipping, cracking and abrasion.

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Teak Wood
Teak is an extremely durable hardwood. It requires little care and no preservatives or treatment of any kind to protect it from the elements. Natural teak will gradually weather to a handsome silver gray color if left outdoors. You will begin to notice the "graying" after 3 month or so, depending upon the amount of sun and rain the furniture is subject to. Total weathering will take about 6 to 9 months. This silvery gray 'patina' which develops over time gives teak furniture a distinctive appearance. The color resulting from this natural aging process is considered to be very attractive, and allows teak furniture to blend in well with many outdoor environments. Teak left in this state is easily maintained, and needs no treatment whatsoever to give many years of service. This is about as easy as a maintenance plan as it is possible to get!

If your teak wood products or furniture is to be used indoors, and away from a lot of natural sunlight, over a period of time -perhaps six months to a year - the wood will gradually become a darker shade of brown. 

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Verdigris Copper
Copper is cut to desired shape.  By chemical reaction a green to bluish green color forms on the copper adding a very soft natural look.  No two are exactly alike.

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Watches
Mechanical­­requires winding by hand. Spring-driven.

Automatic­­Self-winding. Weighted rotor works on gravity, and natural wrist movements keep the watch wound.

Quartz Analog--A battery activated quartz crystal vibrates 32,768 times per second, providing the energy to move the hands. Usually accurate within one minute a year.

Quartz Digital--Digital display instead of moving hands. Often features additional functions such as day/date, stop-watch, alarm, and others.

(Note: To change watch batteries locate the groove on the back of the watch case and gently pry off the back.  Remove the old battery by loosening the screw that holds the metal contact, slide the battery out, and insert the new battery same side up as the old.  Tighten the screw, and snap the case back on.)